Nagarkot Sunrise and Hike to Changu Narayan

This Changu Narayan hike starts with sunrise at Nagarkot, then follows a ridge route on foot to the hilltop temple. Published walking times are 4 to 5 hours, and you can join the daily group or go private.

How hard is the walk from Nagarkot to Changu Narayan?

The walk is mostly downhill but long, and sources put it anywhere from easy to moderate. Himalayan Local Guide gives about 14 km and calls it easy, while Outdoor Nagarkot calls it moderate.

We’d call it active, because of the 4:30 am start and the time on your feet. Times in our sources don’t agree either.

The last two walked uphill, so expect to be quicker going down. They do tell you what the ground is like: forest paths, steep stairs near Telkot, and stretches on the road that buses use.

What’s the day like on this Changu Narayan hike?

It’s a long day that starts in the dark and ends with tired legs. You drive for 1.5 to 2 hours to reach the ridge, watch the sun come up, then walk through villages and forest to the temple.

Plan on 8 to 9 hours from start to finish. Published walking times for this route run from 4 to 5 hours, so the walking pace and the time at the temple decide which end you reach.

What will you see along the way?

You’ll see the Himalayan skyline if the morning is clear, then terraced fields, villages and pine forest. Mountain views depend on the weather and are never guaranteed.

Nagarkot

Nagarkot is a ridge village at about 2,175 metres, though some sources say 2,100 to 2,190 metres. One guide lists Ganesh Himal, Langtang Lirung and Dorje Lakpa on a clear morning, and describes Everest as a dot on the horizon.

Telkot and the forest

All the routes we read pass through Telkot, and it works as a natural break. Himalayan Local Guide mentions pine and rhododendron forest past Telkot and says the trail is wide and easy to walk in hiking shoes. Full Time Explorer found few tea stops on this route, so carry your own water and snacks, and warns that some turns are unmarked. Your guide handles the route.

Changu Narayan

Changu Narayan is a hilltop temple to Vishnu, with stone sculptures in its courtyard. One guide lists Vishnu Vikrant, Vishworup and Garuda Narayan, and the inscribed pillar of King Manadeva is dated by the sources we read to 464 CE.

The 2015 earthquake badly damaged the complex. The Kathmandu Post reported two smaller temples reduced to debris and the main temple’s corners falling apart, and Wikipedia says rebuilding took five years. Our Changu Narayan guide has more. Please respect worship in the courtyard, as this is a living temple.

Is this hike better as a group or privately?

Private suits you if you’re unsure of your pace, because pace decides this day. A private hike costs more, but it’s only your party, and you set the speed. Hotel pick-up is included on both formats.

The group hike costs less, and you walk with other travellers. It’s scheduled every day, with a start at about 4:30 am in mid-November, before dawn. The route and schedule are fixed, and you share one pace with the group.

A daily departure doesn’t make every day a good one. We run this hike all year, including the monsoon, but it’s still a poor choice then, as the section below explains. Group tours run from 2 guests. If you’re the only guest booked, we tell you at least 24 hours before, and you can choose another day, an upgrade to private at the private price, or a full refund of anything you’ve paid.

How does this compare with the other Nagarkot tours?

The nearest alternative is Nagarkot sunrise and Bhaktapur, which skips the walk and adds an old city.

Where do breakfast and lunch fall?

Breakfast has to be quick or packed, as you start walking soon after sunrise. Lunch falls at Changu Narayan or back in Kathmandu, and neither meal is included.

One operator’s version of this hike serves lunch at Changu Narayan, so food is available there. Ask your guide when you reach the village, because a sit-down lunch adds to the length of the day.

What can go wrong, and how does the day change?

Weather and fatigue are the two big risks. Everest Uncensored’s 2017 walkers met muddy, slippery paths and leeches after rain, along with fog that hid the view at Nagarkot.

• Monsoon: this hike runs all year, including the monsoon. The UK Foreign Office says monsoon normally runs from June to October, with flooding and landslides possible. This hike is a poor choice in those months.
• Tired legs: tell your guide early. One 2017 report mentions road access at Telkot, so an early finish may be possible there, though we haven’t confirmed this for every day.
• Haze: IQAir’s 2019 data shows the worst valley air from November to May. Views may be soft, and walkers with asthma should think carefully.
• Slow pace: the day runs longer, and you lose time at the temple first. Don’t plan anything for that afternoon.

Poor views alone aren’t grounds for a refund. Check the cancellation policy before you book, in case the weather is bad.